Friday, November 14, 2014

1760s-1780s Paniers



So these paniers have been a long time in the making! I originally started them over a year ago. My plan was to hand sew the whole thing to make it as authentic as possible even though hand sewing is really not my thing, which probably explains why it got placed on the UFO pile, untouched for a year. However, this year for Halloween I decided to go as a French revolution guillotine victim and under my eighteenth century gown I needed some pocket hoops! So I fished the half finished paniers out of the UFO pile and started working on them.

The pattern that I used for these paniers was from The Dreamstresses' "Panier-Along" tutorial that is based on information given in Norah Waugh’s Corsets & Crinolines, and on the panier pattern at Tidens Tøj for the paniers pictured below:


Although I started to hand sew them when I started the project over a year ago, due to my hectic schedule and the fact that I left it until the last minute to finish them I gave up on the hand sewing and decided to machine sew the rest (which was mainly inside seams, etc.). Luckily most of the outside stitching I had done when I was hand sewing them so they look somewhat authentic and have some nice detailing like this,


The fabric is cotton linen and I couldn't find any cane cane so I had to use modern dressmakers boning (doubled up when possible to give more structure). 

The only way I deviated from the pattern and instructions provided by The Dreamstress was using white pre-made bias tape to finish the top of the paniers as it was much quicker than making it myself. 

And here it is, the finished paniers!






And under the gown:



The HSF '14 Challenge: #21 - Re-do
Fabric:  white linen, white cotton thread,
Pattern: Provided by The Dreamstress' "Panier Along"
Year: 1760s-1780s
Notions: Dressmakers boning, twill tape, bias tape
How historically accurate is it? Pattern is mostly accurate, maybe (80%).  Fabrics and notions are as historically accurate as you can get these days (80%). It's half hand sewn and half machine sewn. (50%). Overall I'd say 70% accurate
Hours to complete: 10
First worn: Halloween 2014
Total cost: Can't remember, but probably around AU$40

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